Quite some time back, I was in Orchha Madhya Pradesh, capital of erstwhile Bundelkhand kingdom.  Bundelkhand was kind of etched in my memory because of a poem from my high school text book.  “Bundele har bolon ke munh hamne suni kahani thi, Khoob Ladi Mardani woh to Jhaansi waali Rani thi”.  This means I have heard the tale of Jhansi Queen Laxmi Bai  from Bundel singers, that  she fought like a man against the British intruders… No, Laxmi Bai was not from Orchha.

Jhansi, today  is a part of Uttar Pradesh India and Orchha is a part of Madhya Pradesh.  But the battle between Laxmi Bai and the Britishers was one of the most talked about battles and there are many movies like Manikarnika, Jhansi ki Rani on this episode.

Cenotaphs or Chhatri of Orchha

Driving into Orccha Madhya Pradesh,  one comes across the conical peaks by the banks of Betwa River. These are the Cenotaphs of Orccha. These 14 funeral monuments were built to keep the Kings of Bunelkhand alive in the Indian history. Please note, these are not the same as the Pyramids built for Egyptian Pharaohs. In Hinduism, the dead bodies are cremated and the ashes are immersed in the river. Hence the Centophs of Orccha were not meant for preserving dead bodies for the next life.

These cenotaphs are called as Chhatris (umbrella) by the locals. They   look similar, except the one made for Vir Singh Deo- the most successful Bundela Raja. The size of the Chhatri perhaps was decided basis the length of the reign of those rulers. These cenotaphs talk about the stories of the kings on its colossal structure.

These cenotaphs have a unique design. They are tall, square buildings,   constructed on raised platforms with a domed pavilion on top called chhatri. It is a type of trabeate domed canopy, resembling an umbrella. Though these are not burial grounds as Hindus are cremated, the cenotaphs are just empty structures.

These chhatris, though have become the living quarters of a critically endangered species of vultures, even if there is no immediate scavenging opportunity. Vultures are usually roosting on the rooftops or soaring high in the sky.  The vulture population in India has been on a decline, due to use of a cattle drug which becomes a part of the carcass and harms the vulture. The cenotaphs are also home to emerald parakeets.

The cenotaphs turn into golden colour when sunlight falls on them; and by evening they are back to their stone form.  May be it just mirrors the story of the Bundelkhand kingdom and Orchha, a once prosperous kingdom now is now reduced to a monument!

Cenotaphs  can’t be compared with the intricate carvings of Khajuraho  temples or the architechture of Mandu , but they are unique.  While the cenotaphs are definitely the highlight of Orchha , there is more to be explored . Here are the top things to be experienced in Orccha.

Raja Rama Temple (dedicated to Rama): 

There are interesting legends associated with this temple. It is believed that one day Raja Rudra Pratap was out on a hunting expedition and he came across a small Ram temple in the forest. While he was offering his prayers to the Lord, a wolf started walking towards him. While the king was oblivious to the predator, he suddenly heard a loud voice saying Orchha,– the command given to dogs in the local Bundela dialect. Hearing this, the hunting dogs accompanying the King chased and killed the wolf. Convinced that the command was given by the deity to save his life, Rudra Pratap decided to set up his capital at that very place, around the temple, and named it as  “Orchha”.

The more believable version is that the name of the town is due to its location which was believed to be secure and “hidden” and that’s what the name also means in the local dialect. The idol in this temple is believed to have been brought from Ayodhya , the birth place of Lord Rama. It is the only temple in India where Lord Rama is worshipped as a king, hence the name Ram Raja Temple.

Jehangir Mahal

From the early 16th to the late 18th century, Orchha, was perpetually at war with the Mughals. Akbar had sent his young prince Jehangir (Salim) to defeat Vir Singh and conquer Orchha.  After several battles, Vir Singh was defeated.  During this period,  Jehangir built a  garrison and palace which is known as  the Jehangir Mehal.

Orchha Fort

This fort is built on an island on the Betwa river, and  houses many temples and palaces.

Go Kayaking, rafting  or boating at the Betwa river

Visit the Laxminarayan Temple

This temple is dedicated to Vishnu and Laxmi, however , it is interesting to note that  there is no idol of the Goddess Laxmi  in the temple.

Explore  Chaturbhuj Temple

The temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu and has an idol of the Lord Vishnu with four arms (Chaturbhuj). However, the temple was originally meant for Lord Rama’s idol.

After the defeat, Vir Singh Deo paid the Mughals a large portion of his infantry and cavalry. Nonetheless, in 1602, around the time Jehangir ascended to the throne of Delhi, Vir Singh Deo killed the Mughal emissary to his court and was on the run for the remainder of his days.

Walking Trail in Orchha Nature Reserve

A stroll in the Orccha Nature reserve is great way to explore the nature near Orccha.

Light and Sound Show at Orchha Fort

The magnificent history of Orchha is brough alive at the light and sound show at Orchha Fort. And is a great option to understand the history of the place

Rai Praveen Mahal

This palace was built by King Indrajit Singh to honour a famous singer and poet Rai Praveen. The palace has beautiful carvings and paintings of various Indian dance forms. It also has a Tope Khana or cannon foundry, which was used to guard the palace against  any outside threat.

Phool Bagh ( Flower Garden)

This garden depicts the decorative architecture of Bundelhkand. There are intricately designed fountains all around in an eight-pillar pavilion. The water gets collected in a large bowl called Chandan Katora; it is then supplied through the roof, making it look like rainfall.  The garden initially served as a retreat for Orchha kings during summer.

Safari at Orchha Wildlife Sanctuary

The sanctuary is the home to a few of dense plantations of Dhawa trees and Kardhai Trees and is famous for spotted deer, Blue Bull, Peacock, Sloth Bear and more. No it is not for the Tiger lovers…It is a good spot for birding though.

For me, Orchha was a different experience with the Cenotaphs, vultures, the Palaces and the wildlife. Besides, it was not as crowded as the other attractions of Madhya Pradesh.  Whether you are a history person, or a nature lover, Orchha should be a part of your Madhya Pradesh Itinerary.

For more such historical experiences in India, you could take a look at the article on Indian history from Indus Valley Civilization to Modern History

In case you are keen on traveling to Orchha and Madhya Pradesh, you could take a look at the itinerary of Madhya Pradesh and cover Orchha  as a part of this itinerary.

India is not just about history. In fact, there are many more facets to this ancient land – culture, spirituality, mystery, nature, wildlife and so on. Read more about how to explore the different facets in destination India .

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Best time to visit Orchha Madhya Pradesh

October to March is the best time to visit Orchha, the weather is pleasant and walking around is a great joy.

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How to reach Orchha ?

Gwalior is the nearest airport (3 hours) and major railway station to reach Orchha. It is also a small drive away from Jhansi in Uttar Pradesh