A Slow-travel experience through Languid Laos – Rip van Winkle country

 

I was very fascinated by this country called Laos since I had heard quite a bit about it. I had not met too many folks who had travelled there, though had read a lot of dope on the internet. This was a country that had been closed to outsiders till a couple of decades back. What was more intriguing for me was to see how a country can go to sleep and then wake up in a completely different world. In a very Rip van Winkle don’t you think? I presume you have heard the story of this gentleman called Rip Van Winkle who went to sleep and then woke up after many years… His world was gone and a different world awaited him… Laos seemed like that to me…

With what little info that I had, lots of hope and a bit of trepidation I landed in Vientiane. It was completely different from what I had imagined… it’s a nice old town, very commercialized, lots of traffic and good number of eating joints and guest houses. I frankly didn’t like the city too much, but there are some great things there – the promenade for one – the sunset, the food joints and the crowd and vibe. The Buddha park was also very good – though a bit touristy and confirming to a touristy stereotype if you know what I mean.

All in all, an uneventful trip in Vientiane. Based on the description and recommendation from some other travelers (backpackers) who I met in one of the seedier pubs, I decided to go to Phonsavan or Xieng Khuang. This was outstanding – acres upon acres of stone jars/ urns. All kinds of them – massive, small, broken, capped urns. All overrun with graffiti and jungle and cows. They are definitely manmade but the reason is not known – some say they are burial urns, some say it was some kind of storage for salt since this was the centre of the booming salt trade and others believe that it was for storage of their rice wine. The last is what I like – it brings forth images of a large army and their chief enjoying a drunken debauch… Apparently they stretch in a line up until Assam in India. There are 3 Plain of Jars sites, all accessible by car. But I recommend the trek – it’s a very scenic and intriguing route…

During the secret war that happened here (didn’t know about it? Don’t worry – that’s why it is called the secret war) a huge number of bombs were dropped here (some say 26 million!). Being a war zone, the whole area was mined. This demining is now a project by the UN– the path allowed is between painted stones. So careful… there is a lot of history and legend here, but I will not bore you with the details. Suffice to say that life here continues with ruins coexisting with everyday life as stark reminders of the times that were far worse…

One high point from this place is the village of Ban Napia – the cottage industry and the way to survive in this land where everyone does subsistence farming is to pickup the remnants of the bombs, melt the aluminium and pour it into moulds to make spoons. Great lesson in survival and entrepreneurship isn’t it? What they teach us in B-schools about taking your challenge/ constraint and turning it into a business model… The village is called the village of spoons because of this. These are the images of the scavenged raw material and the home unit for making the spoons…

 

I came back after this, and relaxed in the town – a laid back town with some lovely people. And great food – the local Lao food is absolutely lip-smacking! Very friendly locals and backpackers all willing to sit and chat over a beer or tea…

 

Next stop – Vang Vieng. A backpacker paradise. Lots of food of all kinds, booze and tubes on a lacid, peaceful river. For the uninitiated, tubing is a simple activity – grab a tyre tube and jump into the meandering river to lazily float around…. Dangerous, but very peaceful and quite a trip. The place has a typical backpacker vibe, friendly chatter. I just lazed around here and never lacked for company to get info on what to do next… lovely food to boot… and all kinds of options for accommodation.

I went for a lovely trek called the “Secret Eden” trek. Very tiring jungle walk with some uphill sections, but beautiful… I returned deliciously tired in the evening… Sat back with a beer in one of the hole in the wall joints that seemed to have a vibe. Great choice – I just sat, met some folks, chilled, and listened… ok I also talked…

 

 

Next stop – Luang Prabang. Exactly what I expected. Temples, fab architecture and a culture that’s been protected from the vagaries of the modern life. The alms giving ceremony – a definite goosebump moment. Early morning, the monks from the monastery just walk by in a straight orderly line. People wait to offer them food in a patient queue. They just give it in a spirit of charity and the monks accept it without demur – all this in complete silence. Apparently during the war sometimes no one would be waiting to give alms. The monks would then walk the same circuit and walk back empty handed to starve for the day… A living tradition from the time of the Buddha!

A great bar here – the icon club… speak with the person running the place. A great storyteller and lovely cocktails… And I met a great Israeli gent there who sang a mean rendition of an old Hindi song from a film called Raja Hindustani (Pardesi Pardesi jaana nahi”)”- he had picked it up when he had visited India many years back! And the Kuang Si waterfall at the end of a short trek nearby! Divine it was!

 

Oh, and the snake wine – I picked up a bottle of it. It’s a hooded snake pickled in a bottle of alcohol. Supposed to be of great medicinal value. I bought it and felt queasy even as it sloshed around in my back-pack – I must confess I am not a great snake lover. And then couldn’t steel myself to drink it – especially after I saw my dorm-mate take a gulp and spit out a scale or something… But I did drink a lot of rice wine. Fairly potent stuff… and in one place I had a drink from the oldest bootlegger I have ever met. She was definitely 80 plus and she gave me a lesson on how it is made…

 

 

Next stop – Nong Khiaw. A lovely romantic town that came after a rickety stuffy ride in an open vehicle with assorted livestock and people and luggage. There are better ways to get there but I was on a budget and travelled there on a whim without preparation after someone said in this bar that it was a great place. Lazy, even time seems to go slow here. Massive limestone karsts, a river cutting through, cottages hugging the steep sides of the mountains, hammocks around the balconies of the cottages, boat rides on the river, hikes, caves… a great place to just chill and soak in nature. And hey, some lovely food joints – nothing fancy but very tasty and hey, super cheap.

 

Was that a bit of an information overload? Well I was just trying to share my story. And like I said, this Rip van Winkle country that seemed to have woken up to a changed world, ensured that I came back from my experience in Laos to a world that suddenly seemed unfamiliar… very much like Uncle Winkle… ?

I am sure you will have a lot of questions around Laos. Let me also try my hand at a short FAQ

1) How many days should one spend in Laos? Which are the places to visit in Laos?

Laos is a large country, if the idea is to get an immersive experience in this country, I would recommend a 17 days plan. However, all of us may not have the luxury of such a long vacation, in such a scenario it is better to restrict oneself to the towns basis your interest in history, nature, adventure, culture etc

If you have10 to 12 days, North Laos is a great option. It has diverse experiences to offer. Whether it is trekking in Luang Namtha , Vang Vieng, Caving in Vang Vieng, Wats and Museums of Luang Prabang, the pristine nature of Nong Khiaw or the mysterious Jars of Phon savan. Since the intercity/town travel time is higher, 12 days is a good duration to cover North Laos.

If planning a week in Laos, then stick to Luang Prabang, Nongkhiaw and Vang Vieng in North. Or you can head to Vientiane and cover Pakse and Bolaven Plateau

If you have only 4 to 5 days , stick to either Luang Prabang + Vang Vieng or Luang Pranang + Nong Khiaw basis the experiences you prefer. If it is only 3 days, I would suggest stay in Luang Prabang, visit the Pak Ou caves, Kuangsi waterfall, Wats and museums and night market.

While North Laos is great , if you have a day extra , Vientiane is less than 3 hours drive from Vang Vieng and may not be a bad idea. For people who fly into Vientiane and want to go to Luang Prabang , you can either take a short flight to Luang Prabang or take a bus. The bus journey takes almost 8 hours and is best avoided.

2) What is a good time to go to Laos?

The best time to visit Laos is between October to April. Weather is warm and dry and Mekong is in full form. Temperature tends to get warmer in March/April, but it is bearable. July is the monsoon season, also considered to be the wettest. South of Laos receives heavy rainfall and North also gets continuous showers, hence July is not the best time to travel. If you are also interested in Photography, October to January is a good time, there is greenery, clear skies and rivers are at their best.

3) What kind of adventure sports options are available in Laos?

Laos is a delight for adventure seekers. Caving, also known as Spelunking or pot holing is something that everyone should look forward to specially in Vang Vieng. There are caves with great stalactite and stalagmite formation, or with water stream flowing inside, the dark caves which can be at times intimidating, but I would all worth it.

For the water loving people, Kayaking in Laos is a great option. Whether it is Nongkhiaw, Vang Vieng in North or Konglor cave in South Laos, it is almost like a dream sequence with mountains by the side . My pick would be the Konglor Caves in South Laos.

For the people who love trekking, there will be an opportunity everywhere. But the one’s which can test your endurance are the Secret Eden trek, Kuangsi trek and Bolaven Plateau

4) Budget & Currency for a vacation in Laos

Laos in general is not an expensive country. However, hiring private transport is very expensive there, so while planning keep that in mind. Depending on the kind of accommodation you choose and the transport type you will require between 50 $ to 100$ per day. The currency of Laos is Kip and converting a 100$ to Kip will suddenly make you feel very cash rich. You can carry USD or Euro to Laos and convert it from a money changing office there. While some of the shops do accept Thai Baht also, but USD is a more acceptable in Laos.

5) Is Laos a good option for Honey moon?

The general perception about Laos is that it is a country for adventure seekers , but Luang say Nongkhiaw are great options for have a quite we time with each other. Whether you want to go for long walks, or boat ride , these places are less touristy and extremely picturesque. In fact if you are planning for a wedding , Laos is not a bad idea. The Baci ceremony will be a perfect setting for people to echange vows.

6) Is Laos a kid friendly destination or can I travel with toddlers or is it any good for oldies?

Let me answer that one by one. There are interesting experiences for kids starting from river cruises, tree top experiences, cultural exchange with the locals or participating in their handicraft sessions, cooking classes, and of course the plain of Jars. You can opt for experiences which can keep the kid engaged. Even if you are travelling with toddlers all the good hotels are well equipped and the tours can be customized keeping the child in mind.
For the oldies there is culture, heritage, moderate treks in Luang Prabang , long boating . The guides are knowledgeable and pick up routes which are friendlier keeping the traveler in mind with short breaks at regular intervals.

7) What are some of the unique customs and traditions of Laos?

Laos can be called as a cosmopolitan country with different tribes who have retained their unique culture and traditions. I am sharing a few which one must experience when in Laos.

• Baci ceremony,  a ceremony to celebrate a special event, whether a marriage, a homecoming, a welcome, a birth, or one of the annual festivals
• Alms giving ceremony, The tradition of alms gathering dates back to the 14th century, yet till today locals wake early to prepare the food for the monks and wait quietly by the roadside to give their alms while the monks walk by in silence.
• Rocket festival, a ceremony believed to bring the rains so that rice planting can begin. And the rituals have an interesting connect to human fertility too… ?

8) Will I be able to manage with Lao food? How about the street food? Is there sea food available?

Sea food is not native to Lao cooking, but the fresh water fish there is a must have. For authentic Lao food, visit Tamnak Lao in Luang Prabang & Vientiane. The spice Papaya salad is a must have in Laos, and if you get an opportunity to see , how it is prepared, do savor your senses. Street food is great, especially in Luang Prabang. The must try are sticky rice , Bamboo soup, jao, Beer Lao and barbequed fresh water wish. Even if you are vegetarian, there are options available. You have to communicate in few simple works, no fish, no meat And if you love Indian food, there are a few good options in each city/town.

9) Language

The language spoken in Laos is called Laotian or simply Lao. Lot of people also speak Thai there. People are not very well versed with English, but they manage to communicate in their broken English and in fact some time rely on their smart phones for translation. Even the road side vendors are able to transact with the travelers despite not being fluent in English

10) Laos Visa, Single entry or multiple entry

The visa can be obtained online or the on arrival option is also available. For travelers going to Laos only, single entry is fine. If you are planning to visit other neighboring countries like Cambodia and Vietnam from Laos and plan to come back to Laos again, multiple entry visa would be required.

11) Shopping

What are you planning to shop? From options to home brew whiskey, silk scarves, wooden handicrafts, paintings the options are varied. Paintings are definitely a must but. Try to buy paintings from the night market or from the vendors seated outside the Wats.

12) Is it safe to travel to Laos? Is it worth the hassle?

Firstly, it is a great place, and there are absolutely no hassles. Great experiences, resilient people and a charming country. It is safe, but like any other country, travelers must respect the local culture, traditions, sentiments and take care of the dos and don’ts. Now is that a very big ask?