Isalo National Park – arid ‘Wild-west’ landscapes, Lush gorges & ‘Paradise’ pools

Few tourists visit the not so well known Isalo National Park in South Central Madagascar. The emblematic attractions of Madagascar i.e. the lemurs are present here but not as much in number as the more popular parks like Ranomafana or Andasibe. In addition, the relatively long time taken to travel here makes it less appealing!

However, for the true nature lover, even a simple single day trek through Isalo is an experience in paradise! ‘Exhilaration’ is one single word to describe my state of mind throughout the day I spent in this rather dry and arid piece of wild heaven! Looking back, there are many reasons for this state of excitement: Paradise pools, sweeping ‘wild west’ landscapes, lush canyons, unique plants and animals – let me try and take you through it!

First, watch our video on our experiences in Isalo. The details follow.

What is so wonderful about Isalo?

The ‘exhilaration’ I felt during my time in Isalo was a combination of multiple factors – from the big to the small. What I can highlight are the sweeping landscapes, pure raw nature, the paradisiacal natural pools and most importantly the small life – the organisms that have evolved to live in this harsh landscape!

The Small 5 of Isalo

In an attention deficit world, we are all enamoured by the so-called big highlights e.g. the Big 5 of Africa. (Lesser known is the Small 5 of Kruger!) However, a good guide can help you observe and appreciate the smaller organisms in Isalo. After my short visit, I coined my own list of a spectacular Small 5 of Isalo.  All of these would have been but invisible if not pointed out by Peterson – my amazing guide.

 

Additional pictures of a further small 5: (there are so many more!!)

 

Majestic Landscapes

High plateaus, arid desert landscapes, dry deciduous forests, carved mountains, sandstone domes and deep forested canyons – all make up for an exciting trek in the park! For some it is reminiscent of the Wild west of North America  and hence, the moniker  “Malagasy Colorado” (comparing it to the Grand Canyon of North America).

The landscape maybe be sparse – but the vistas are simply superb. It is quite difficult to get bored even on a day long walk through the park!

Paradise Pools

Locally called ‘Piscine Naturelle’ (natural pools) – but I prefer to call them ‘Paradise’ pools. Small oases of clear turquoise and blue waters ensconced in the shade of green vegetation, amidst the vast arid landscapes – these are truly pieces of paradise. We came across three paradise pools during our day-long trek in Isalo.  Each one was a wonder – from the shallow turquoise of the first Piscine Naturelle to deep waters of the Black pool!

About Isalo National Park

First a few things about Isalo. As per local legend, the name Isalo comes from that of a plant endemic to the region, the ‘salotse’ (Ichnolepsis graminifolia). To this the Baras (local tribe – early inhabitants) would have added the “i” as they do to designate a region – Isalo.

Millions of years ago, when Madagascar separated from Africa and stated drifting towards the Indian subcontinent, Isalo was on the coast. As tectonic movements forced the rocks of the massif to rise, the seas were gradually pushed back and the coast receded to the west. Since then, wind and water have sculpted the Isalo massif, resulting in deep canyons, sandstone domes, flat-topped mountains and “runiform” (from the French word for ‘carved’) mountains – steep sided outcrops that have been dissected into odd-shapes. Today, the protected area is of 815 km², with the Isalo massif rising up from the flat surrounding plains.

The climate in Isalo is arid and dry with hot temperatures throughout the year. The harsh climate can quite tough and it has resulted in many wonderful adaptations in the plants and animals here.

Flora and fauna of Isalo National park

The park is home to about 77 species of birds (of which 70% are endemic including the rare Benson’s rock-thrush which is found only here), 35 species of reptiles and several endemic frogs. The harsh landscape means that the wildlife is not as prominent as the other popular parks of Madagascar. Nevertheless, in the forested canyons, look out for the lemurs – the Ring tailed lemur, Brown lemurs and the Sifaka.

Flora of Isalo

Isalo is more known for its spectacular flora. There are several local endemic plants among the 500 species which are found within Isalo, such as the elephant´s foot (the miniature Baobab – genus Pachypodium), the salotse (Ichnolepsis graminifolia) and some rare palms and aloe species. The Salotse is the only species in the genus Icholepsis and is found only in Isalo!

An interesting common tree here is the Tapia tree (Uapaca bojeri) – again a species endemic to Madagascar. This short resilient tree has evolved to withstand the constant wildfires in this arid environment. Locally, the Tapia (pronounced ‘ta-pee’) plays an important role in the economy and culture of the region. The Tapia leaves are the only food of the silkworm ‘landibe’ (Borocera madagascariensis). Local weavers collect the cacoons and spin the raw silk into shawls, cloths and shrouds to bury the dead.

Read more about Landibe and its impact on the local economy here.

Around the streams (in the valleys) and the pools, you will find a further variety of plants and trees –  many of them endemic to Madagascar. E.g. there are many Pandanus genus species. (refer pic below). I also managed to figure out the ID of this tree that I had photographed – the palm tree species: Dypsis onilahensis

 

Things to do in Isalo National Park

Treks in Isalo

A trek on the plains, canyons, hills and gorges of Isalo is the best way to experience this wild wonder. Isalo has a variety of trekking trails – ranging from multi-day overnight treks of 4-5 days to treks lasting a few hours. However, the long trek i.e. the Portuguese Cave trail can be a big challenge – only for the very fit. The cave is at the northern end of the park and getting there involves 4 days back and forth. But trekking through the beautiful Sahanafa forest with natural springs and spotting a lot of lemurs would certainly make the trek worth it!

For the ordinary traveller, either a short single trail or a combination of short trails would be sufficient to give a flavour of the riches of this park. The trails I did were Piscine Naturelle (Natural swimming pool), Crest (Circuit Crete going to the top of the Isalo range – which forms the border of the Park) and the Namaza campsite trail (which has two beautiful natural pools – the Black pool and the green pool) in a beautiful gorge. All these took around 6-8 enjoyable hours and ended with a sumptuous lunch (with beer) at the Namaza campsite in the company the Ring-tailed lemurs.

If you go further up the Namaza trail, you can consider exploring the Cascade de Nymphes waterfall – considered the best of the paradise pools.

Overnight camping

It is also possible to camp overnight in one of the campsites closer to the Park boundary either near Piscine Naturelle or at the Namaza campsite. The former is on the plateau and sure to offer spectacular views and the latter is in a verdant gorge. However, it is important to understand that the facilities are basic. The point being getting back close to nature. Take your pick!

Have additional time to explore this wonderful place?  Various other short circuits are possible. These include: Circuit Canyon des Makis and Canyon des Rats (close to each other and good for lemur spotting), Circuit Canyon des Singes, Circuit Malaso etc..

 

Window of Isalo

A ‘touristy’ attraction – but nevertheless worth a visit for the spectacular sunsets. Here, a naturally cut window in a rock formation allows ‘picturesque’ views of the sunset. Hence, it is a ‘mandatory’ visit when in Isalo, one of the few times when a site is ‘crowded’ in Madagascar. (a comparable crowd would be the sunset at the Avenue of Baobabs!)

Stunning sunsets indeed – in any season!

 

Zombitse Vohibasia National Park

On the road between Isalo and Tulear, is this very interesting small park – Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park. Do take out some time to look for lemurs and for some birding! Consisting of deciduous forests, woodlands and grasslands this park has 20 species of mammals (including 8 lemur species) and 33 species of reptiles. In the couple of hours, we spent there, we spotted 6 birds and 2 lemurs. I do wish we had more time here!

 

Planning for Isalo National Park

Where to stay?

There are many beautiful eco-lodges in Ranohira region outside Isalo. However, you can also choose to stay at one of the campsites within Isalo. I did not stay inside Isalo – but having had a look at the campsites during my trek, I am sure it would be wonderful experience.

How many days to stay in Isalo?

Given the distance to reach Isalo (from the east or the west), you will need a minimum of 2 nights in Isalo. This will give you one full day to explore Isalo National Park. However, we recommend a full 2 days to explore the Park. Ideally, combine a few short circuits on each day to explore the Isalo plateau and the gorges with their paradise pools.

Planning the itinerary for Madagascar

For a short 10-12 itinerary, Isalo can be included in your itinerary exploring the Southern area of Madagascar. This itinerary would include the popular Ranomahana National Park, Anja Reserve and the Tsaranoro valley. However, it would entail a long road journey from Tana to Tulear and the return by flight. If you prefer (and we recommend), you can end the long land trip with a couple of days on the pristine beaches of Ifaty near Tulear.

Check out Beyonder’s Southern Madagascar itinerary: Tropical forests, Expansive Canyons and Coral reefs of Madagascar.