Nyungwe Forest: Chimpanzee & forest canopy walk

Nyungwe Forest National Park is an ancient Afro-montane rainforest in Southern Rwanda. Famous for its Chimpanzee tracking and the forest Canopy walk experience, Nyungwe is truly a beautiful adventure option during your trip to Rwanda.

About Nyungwe Forest

Biodiversity Hotspot

Nyungwe forest National Park is a part of the Albertine Rift – the western part of Africa’s Great Rift Valley. Created by the spreading of the earth’s crust, the Albertine rift – ranging from Lake Albert in the north (Uganda) to Lake Tangyanika in the south, is a mountainous section of East Africa. The Albertine rift, as a whole, harbours more endemic birds, mammals and amphibians than any other region in Africa.

e.g. over 1,000 species of birds, about 52% of all of Africa’s birds, have been recorded in the Albertine rift. Nyungwe forest with its Montane forests, is the largest protected area within the Albertine rift, and contains 25 of these endemics, more than any other site of Africa.

Established in 2004, Nyungwe Forest National Park  covers an area of approximately 970 sq kms of rainforest, bamboo, grassland, swamps, and bogs. Nyungwe is one of Africa’s oldest forests. Scientists believe that Nyungwe was one of the only places in Africa to remain green during the last ice age. Species took shelter in Nyungwe and never left! That explains the high level of endemic species in the forest. Thus, the park is a remarkably rich centre of biodiversity, with more than 1,050 plant species recorded, among them 200 varieties of orchid, along with 85 mammal, 310 bird, 120 butterfly, 32 amphibian and 38 reptile species.

It is believed that climate change will not affect Nyungwe as much as other forests, as long as it is protected from threats like fires and tree cutting.

Read more on: https://www.visitrwanda.com/destinations/nyungwe-national-park/

Primates of Nyungwe Forest

Amongst the 13 primate species here, the most celebrated resident is the Chimpanzee. In addition there is the Rwenzori (Angolan) Colobus, an arboreal leafeater, which is endemic to the Albertine rift. The Angolan Colobus’ move in large groups of more than 300 and that is very unique!

Other types of monkeys found in the park include – Silver monkey, L’Hoest Monkey, Owl faced monkeys, Golden monkeys, the Red tailed monkey, Crowned monkey, the Dent’s Mona Monkey, Grey cheeked Mangabey, Vervet monkey and the Olive baboon.

The park has four types of Prosimian, the small nocturnal primates that are more closely related to the lemurs of Madagascar than to any other primates of African mainland.

 

Water Catchment Area – source of Africa’s great rivers including the River Nile

With plenty of rainfall, Nyungwe is the major catchment area in Rwanda. It supplies water to 70% of the country. A ridge running through the forest forms a watershed between the drainage systems of the Nile and the Congo. A spring on the slopes of Mt Bigugu is said to be the most remote source of the Nile, the world’s longest river. Surprised? Refer our blog on this:

Journey to the Source of the River Nile

 

Decline of Nyungwe forest

Today Nyungwe covers over 970 sq kms of area. However, historically it covered a far larger area. Refer pic below. Earlier Nyungwe was connected continuously with Gishwati and the Virungas Forest areas. However, particularly over the last 100 years, increasing population in and around Nyungwe have resulted in its decline. Gold mining camps, poachers, honey harvesters and the inevitable takeover of forest land for agriculture have only precipitated the decline.

Though still rich in biodiversity, in addition to the reduction in area, the human influence has resulted in various species going extinct. E.g. Elephants and buffaloes went extinct only recently in the last 50 years! The last elephant was shot down in 1999 and the last Buffalo was killed in 1974.  What the Ice Age couldn’t do – humans did in merely 50-100 years. Hopefully, the current protection to the park will allow it to survive beyond the next ice age!

 

Main Attractions of Nyungwe Forest National Park

Chimpanzees Tracking

The main attraction of Nyungwe National Park is the tracking of Chimpanzees in the wild. This involves trekking inside the forest for the opportunity to track a habituated group of wild Chimpanzees. Nyungwe has only two habituated groups of Chimpanzee. The smaller group consists of of 30 Chimpanzees, while the larger group has 60 Chimpanzees.

Strictly speaking the Chimpanzee tracking is not done in the core Nyungwe Forest area. Human development – mainly tea estates have separated the core park from the Cyamudongo forest area to the south. Chimpanzees are actually no longer found in the core Nyungwe forest. Hence, Chimpanzee tracking is now done in the Cyamudongo forest. I am told that there are plans to reconnect the two forest areas – which may allow the Chimps to migrate to the richer montane forests of Nyungwe.

Like all primate tracking adventures anywhere, the outcome can never be guaranteed. Organised in groups of 8 people, the total duration can take anywhere between 2-5 hours. While there is a high possibility of actually tracking the Chimpanzee family, the quality of the ‘encounter’ depends entirely on the ‘mood’ of the family at that time!

Watch my video on my experience going Chimp tracking in Nyungwe.

Comparison with Chimpanzee tracking experiences in other places

Nyungwe is nowhere close to Kibale National Park (Uganda) in terms of ‘quantity’ and ‘quality’of the Chimpanzee tracking experience. Moreover, in my opinion, Kibale has a relatively flatter terrain and is easier to trek in your quest to search for a Chimpanzee family. Remember that unlike Mountain Gorillas, Chimps can be quite fast in their movements and you will often end up running (up and down slopes in thick vegetation) behind a particular family to get a better sighting! Why do it here in Nyungwe then? I believe each tracking experience is unique and you are sure to treasure it for the rest of your life!! I definitely enjoyed it in Nyungwe forest far more than the tracking experience in Kibale Forest in Uganda!

Forest Canopy walk

Another of the main attractions of Nyungwe is the amazing Canopy walk. Imagine walking at the level of the rain forest canopy at nearly 50-70 metres above ground. Suspended above a ravine in the lush montane rainforest of Nyungwe, the canopy walkway provides an exhilarating perspective on the ancient treetops and wildlife.

The height can be scary for some – especially since there is a walk of nearly 160 metres on the suspension bridges. But, the expansive views of the rain forests from the walkway are simply fabulous. Furthermore, the possibility of spotting the primates and unique birds of Nyungwe at the same level as their normal habitat, makes the scare all worthwhile!

The Canopy walk is on the Igishigishigi hiking trail and it would take a pleasant (but slippery) walk for about an hour to reach the bridges from the Uwinka Visitors centre. Walking in a rain forest is a privilege – enjoy your time in the pristine rain forest. This is also an opportunity to spot the rare endemic birds of Nyungwe – though this is easier said than done in the low visibility of dense forests.

 

Other Experiences in Nyungwe

Nature Hiking Trails

And apart from the canopy walk, Nyungwe offers many trails into the forest for hikers and nature lovers. There are 13 hiking trails with over 130 kilometers of the trails through the forest. Duration of hiking trails ranges from 4 hours to 3 days.

For the curious, there is the trail which takes you to the Source of the longest river in the world – the River Nile, along the slopes of Mt. Bigugu inside the forest. Another interesting hike is the one to the Isumo falls.

Monkey Trails

Monkey tracking is not talked about as much as the Mountain Gorilla tracking and the Chimpanzee tracking are. But the experience of trekking through beautiful thick forests and spotting a group of 300+ (Angolan Colobus Monkey) primates can be exciting alright! And to add, also experience beautiful sights of the waterfalls, mountains & swamps on the way!

Note: All the guided walks start from the central Uwinka reception Centre, the western Gisakura entrance as well as the eastern Kitabi entrance.

 

Visit adjoining Tea Estates

The sight of the expansive tea estates with the backdrop of the thick rainforests is a sight to behold. Maybe these estates are responsible for the decimation of the forest, but that does not stop you from admiring the beauty and meditative atmosphere.

Stay in a Camp inside the forest! 

There is an option to stay in basic tents just near the Uwinka centre in Nyungwe forest. Refer below. Absolutely brilliant experience!

 

Where to stay when visiting Nyungwe Forest

Nyungwe is nearly 220 kms (about 4-5 hours) away from Kigali, the capital of Rwanda. Many people make a day trip only for the Canopy walk!! (and combining a visit to the Royal Palace in Huye on the way!). However, we do not recommend this hectic trip at all.

Give some time to enjoy the rain forests, soak it in and visit the Chimpanzees in Cyamudongo forest as well. We recommend a minimum of a 2 day visit combining the Canopy Walkway, a forest hike and Chimpanzee tracking. If you have more time, you can on the way back drive along Lake Kivu and take a pitstop on one of the beautiful Lake resorts.

There are broadly 4 options to stay in / near Nyungwe (cheapest to most expensive) – Phew!

Camping

The first (and the recommended) is the Camping site at Uwinka Centre. Experience the sounds of the tropical forest at night – a night in the jungle would be unforgettable! (refer pics in section above) However, there is absolutely no luxury – the shared (and dirty) bathroom would be a big deterrent!

Budget guest houses

There are many budget guest houses and hotels near Gisakura town (between Uwinka and Cyamudong – near the Tea estates) and in Rusizi (southern Lake Kivu). However, the facilities can be quite basic.

Lake Resorts

There are many resorts by Lake Kivu in Rusizi. With beautiful views and moderate luxury, spending time in these resorts would be easy and pleasurable!

Luxury Lodges

If you have the money and want to stay amidst absolute beauty in opulent luxury – the One&Only Nyungwe house is the place for you. Set in the middle of a tea estate, this property has jaw dropping views in the backdrop of the Nyungwe rain forest. Breath-taking! Wish I had the money to afford staying at this place!

 

Closing thoughts – Travel Friends

Nyungwe is a beautiful destination. Often ignored in the hurry to complete the Gorilla ‘express’ tours of the Volcanoes National park, it is unfortunate that more people do not visit Nyungwe.

My best memories of Nyungwe, other than the moments of pure joy in the forests, were the new friends I made in my short visit. First was Eric – the hotel supervisor at the Uwinka Centre where I had stayed the night at the campsite. Eric is a pleasant young man who had studied in Chennai, India for his post graduation. One short evening of interesting conversations about his experiences in India from a foreigner’s perspective was great!

Second was the lovely group that was part of the Chimpanzee tracking. This group of youngsters from all across the world (US, Mexico and Germany) had come to Rwanda on various volunteering projects – two of them were medical students. The energy of this group certainly made my day! One of the best travel experiences is about sharing great moments with beautiful people!