Ankarana National Park, Madagascar – Hiking trails, caves, underground rivers and the Grey Tsingy

The Ankarana National Park is located in the northern part of Madagascar, about 108 kms south of Antsirananan (Diego Suarez). Created in 1956, Ankarana National park covers an area of 1825 sq km. Ankarana is home to a spectacularly eroded limestone fortress of sharp ridges (the Tsingy), patches of dense tropical jungle, deciduous forest, deep caves, canyons and rushing rivers.

Ankarana is famous for its Tsingys; razor sharp limestones that tower over huge areas at several metres. The Madagascan word ‘mitsingytsingyna’ means ‘walking on tiptoe’. The rock pinnacles are sculpted by the action of water over millenia. The Tsingy separate the park into two: A dry savannah landscape and an evergreen dry forest.

Traversed by numerous gorges and rivers, Ankarana has Africa’s largest interconnected cave network with a total length of 120 kms! A special feature of the park is the ‘perte des rivieres’ (“The river hole”), a huge stone hole in which three rivers merge and continue underground – some say right up to the Mozambique channel.

Ankarana is known for its rewarding hiking experiences. There are a variety of trails with unique landscapes, caves, rivers and lakes – both overground and underground! And yes, it is home to some amazing flora and fauna. A highlight of the visit to Ankarana is the hiking trails to and along the Tsingy, which leads to two small suspension bridges.  From the highest point of Ankarana, Point de Vue (Lookout), you can see the whole park right up to the Mozambique channel. Read more here on the official tourism site.

Flora and Fauna

The caves of Ankarana as well as the Tsingy offer habitat to some very specialised animals. In the caves, you can find blind fish, shellfish, snails, crabs, arachnids and bats. You will even find the Nile Crocodile in some underground rivers. There are 60 species of reptiles and amphibians in Ankarana.

 

Eleven species of lemurs live in the dry forest as well as between the Tsingy.  – including the crowned lemur, Sanford’s brown lemur and the nocturnal Ankarana Sportive lemur. Ankarana is home to about 100 species of birds. The caves are home to numerous bat species – about 14 of them. This is half the number of bat species found in the whole of Madagascar.

Ankarana National Park has at least 330 botanical species, of which several species are endemic. In the forests, look out for the rare Perrier’s baobab (Adansonia perrieri), and the shedding cammiphoras. Perrier’s baobab is endemic here and found only in Ankarana. On the tsingy, it is surprising to see how life manages despite the hardship and barren environment – the Adenias and pachypodiums (succulents), Eurphorbias and the Pandanus.

 

Exploring Ankarana

There are two broad sections of Ankarana for your exploration: The Eastern part (the Mahamasina entrance) and the Western side (Amboandriky). Strictly speaking, there is a northern section (Matsaborimanga), but rarely considered due to the difficult access (Impossible in the rains). Depending on the number of days available, you will need to decide which section to choose – compromises are inevitable!

Of course, both sections are wonderful – but you will need two full days (3 nights) at a minimum just to check the highlights of each section. The eastern (Mahamasina) section is known for the Big (Grey) Tsingy of Benavony, the magnificient cave of bats and the Perte des rivieres (i.e. the Lost Rivers) amongst other sites! The western section (Amboandriky) is famous for its massive caves, underground rivers (and the resident crocodiles) and canyons.

The eastern section is easier to access. It is straight on the road when coming from Diego Suarez. But the western section is quite far and about 3-4 hours by road from the Eastern section. The Eastern section also has more options for stay. Each section has a variety of trails (Circuits) – ranging from the easy 2-3 hours to the gruelling 8-9 hour trails. We shall discuss some of the more popular circuits here.

Eastern (Mahamasina) Section

Big Tsingy of Benavony

This is the star attraction of Ankarana National park! A decently long trek (4-5 hours at the minimum) to reach here. But the effort is well worth it! The Grey Tsingy is similar to the Grand Tsingy of Bemaraha in terms of geological origins. But definitely not as ‘grand’ or majestic as the Tsingy Bemaraha! Nevertheless, viewing the sea of Tsingy expanding over the horizon and the defiant vegetation eking out a living on and beneath the Tsingy in the caves & canyons is a fantastic experience! In addition, there are two exciting suspension bridges over the tsingy canyons. Furthermore, there are two view-points which offer expansive views of this rock desert landscape and beyond.

Perte des rivieres (i.e. the Lost Rivers)

A short trek, it is no less exciting! Walk along the dry riverbed of the river Ampondrabe to reach this massive gaping hole in the ground. The river(s) are dry for most of the year and flood disastrously during the rainy season. This should be apparent when one sees the large boulders on the dry riverbed instead of smooth sand. Pebbles and sand would characterise a normal flowing river. Here, large boulders here have been pushed along by strong gushing and seasonal waters.

The Lost River channel (i.e. the hole in the ground) apparently is yet to be explored fully – apparently quite dangerous. During the rainy season, when the 3 rivers (which confluence at this point) empty into this underground channel. Some say that the tunnel goes all the way to the Mozambique channel and drain out into the Indian Ocean. Plastic and other debris nearly 20 ft high up on the trees give an indication of the water levels when the rivers are in spate! The rivers have water only during the rains. Hence, you can observe this wonder of nature quite safely for most of the year.

 

Cave of the Bats (Grotte de Chauves)

The only large cave on the eastern section (the western section has even more grand caves), the massive Cave of the Bats, especially the entrance, is magnificent. Located quite below ground level, you will need to descend down steep stairs to access this cave. Apparently, there are nearly 8 species of bats that call this place home. A fabulous experience!

 

The Viewpoint of Ambohimalaza

This circuit is in a different direction and ideally would take another day (in addition to the Big Tsingy and the Cave of the bats). I did not get to cover this circuit, but I am told that the experience and views are superb. Get picture postcard views of Ambilobe (west) over the Tsingy and the Mozambique channel with its islets in the distance. From the highest points, one can see the northern part of Ankarana and the silhouette of the Amber Mountain Park as well.

 

Western Section (Amboandriky) of Ankarana

The western part of Ankarana is only accessible during the dry season from June to December, when the Antenan’Ankarana river can be crossed by car. Caves, massive canyons and underground rivers dominate this section of the park.

The caves form either long galleries or are sheltered by massive Tsingy walls –  50 to 60 metres high. This tsingy wall, interspersed with canyons, is the natural boundary of the western park, known as the “Wall of Ankarana”.

One of the main highlights of part of the park is the underground Cave and ‘Cathedral’ of Andrafiabe. Boundered by huge rocks, the ‘cathedral’ has  beautiful dripstone formations. An opening in the ‘cathedral’ lets a few sun rays through creating a halo of light.

There are various other caves with underground lakes and rivers like the Milaintety Cave, Potamochère Cave, The Green River and 1st Canyon, Antsironandoha Cave, Cave of the Pigeons, Lake Mangily, Crocodiles cave and Lake Ampandriamborona. Watch out! Some of the rivers / lakes have the Nile Crocodiles (Crocodiles are not endemic to Madagascar). Of course, the paths to the different caves / lakes are different and would take you days to cover all the beautiful sights!

Planning for Ankarana National Park

The challenges of transportation within Madagascar make planning for a trip to Madagascar quite an exercise with permutations and compromises! The ideal way would be to visit Madagascar multiple times to appreciate the splendour and highlights of each region. Hence, the division of the itineraries into north, south, east and west! Check out our standard itineraries for Madagascar.

Ankarana National Park is a must-do if you are planning the Northern part of Madagascar in a single trip. If you are aiming for the highlights of ‘Madagascar’ in one / two trips, Ankarana may not figure in the shortlist at all! Ankarana would come second place to the Tsingy of Bemaraha (west) and the treks of Isalo. And this is unfortunate – as the trekking circuits, caves, underground rivers, the tsingy and the flora and fauna of Ankarana are quite unique and fabulous! I, for one, would personally recommend not to miss out on Ankarana on a trip to Madagascar.

Check out our video on our experiences in Ankarana: