Chasing The Northern Lights in Tromso

My first tryst with Aurora Borealis was through the lovely pictures clicked by my friend and his never ending narratives about the phenomena. So what is Aurora Borealis or the Northern Lights ? In layman’s word, it can be explained as a natural phenomenon of solar particles reacting with earth’s magnetic field which creates a display of lights in green, pink, yellow and other colours. The magic is caused by the effect of Earth’s magnetic poles on the fast moving, electrically charged particles from the sun. Their colours come from the different gases in Earth’s atmosphere. Auroral displays appear in many colours although pale green and pink are the most common. Shades of red, yellow, green, blue, and violet have also been witnessed by a lot of people. The lights appear in many forms from patches of light to arcs, rippling curtains or shooting rays.

Where can one get to see the Northern lights?

Northern Lights can be seen in the northern or southern hemisphere, in an irregularly shaped oval centred over each magnetic pole. The best places to watch the lights (in North America) are in the north western parts of Canada, particularly the Yukon, Nunavut, Northwest Territories and Alaska. Auroral displays can also be seen over the southern tip of Greenland and Iceland, the northern coast of Norway and over the coastal waters north of Siberia. Southern auroras are not often seen as they are concentrated in a ring around Antarctica and the southern Indian Ocean. Areas that are not subject to ‘light pollution’ are the best places to watch for the lights. Areas in the north, in smaller communities, tend to be the best bet for Northern Lights.

I had the opportunity to experience the lights in Norway. I am very tempted to share some cool facts about Norway. It is one of the world’s richest, most expensive, peaceful and happiest country! In fact Second Happiest country in the world as per the United Nation’s World Happiness Report. Of course the decision to travel to Norway had more to do with the timing, flight connection, and travel time from my home country and more.

The same question still exists, where can I see the Northern lights in Norway?

Even if one has zeroed down on Norway, one is still spoilt for choices. While doing my research, the choice was between Svalbard, Alta, Kirkenes and Tromso. However, I decided on Tromso, as the scope of exploring this place beyond the Aurora was the highest. Of course Aurora was the prime reason of travelling to Norway, but a place which has a distinct culture from one’s home country, a very different living conditions and a completely different weather pushes one to explore for more. So, I had my reasons for sticking to Tromso during my first visit to Norway. To start with, let me share the obvious ones. This town near Arctic Circle is well connected by flights. Also due to the warm currents of the Gulf Stream, the temperature in Tromso is relatively mild. Tromsø is also referred to as “the mild Northern Lights area”. That was some kind of a consolation, I must admit here.

But weather was not the only reason for choosing Tromso. This place has a rich history which is almost 11000 years old and this is evident from the rock carvings in the region. It is a picturesque town where lovely people reside and the town has great restaurants and Pubs. The city is known for its vibrant night life. Also known as the University town, Tromso has a population of more than ten thousand students, and that probably speaks for the lively night life. However, don’t get surprised to see the senior citizens having a good time at pubs and restaurants late in the night. Storgata, the main street of Tromso,

And finally, there are lot of other experiences like husky ride, Reindeer sledge, whale watching, Sami culture which awaits here. Tromso and its outskirts has so much to offer that one can spend a lot of time without getting bored. I ended up spending 8 days in Tromso and I still feel I should travel again.

If your pick is Tromso, then go beyond the town and experience Aurora and capture it in your lens for life time. The further you go, better are the chances of spotting the lights. As they say, there is no guarantee that lights will appear, but as a definite effort one has to be away from the hustle and bustle of city where the sky is clear and there is no light pollution.

The Northern lights hunt starts at around 6.30 pm in the evening and can go on till 2 am. In case you choose to stay in the Sami Camps, imagine yourself camping in the middle of snowclad places and sitting by the fireplace under the sky waiting for the Northern Lights. It is usually called a hunt or a chase because one has to travel beyond Tromso and be at a place with clear cloudless sky, no ambient light, no population around. While chasing by bus or boat, drive itself is an experience that will get etched in the memory. The pursuit for the Northern Lights starts after getting away from the city limits and city lights.

Northern Lights is in the bucket list for a lot of us, but Aurora is also an experience which the camera would also like to feast upon. Shooting the Northern Lights and creating a life time memory goes hand in hand with experiencing the lights. So, get ready for a glimpse of the lights at various places in Tromso.

Here are the Top places to experience Northern Lights in Tromso and photograph it (In no particular order)

1) Tromvik: This is a small fishing village on the Kvaloya island , off Tromso. We will talk about the Northern lights, but before that it is important to mention that, this small hamlet offers a peek at the lives of Norwegian fishermen. The place is also dotted with fisherman huts, reindeer and hjeller (fish racks built as high as a house for air drying cod).  The ideal place to experience the light is a coast close to Tromvik. Spotting the lights from here is almost like watching it walk over the ocean.

2) Camp Tamok: Located at The Tamok valley, 75 minutes’ drive from the city centre, it has the optimal conditions for experiencing the Northern Lights. It is in a different and drier climate zone, with clear inland mountain weather. What adds to the experience here is the lavvu tents, timber cabins, husky yard and more. Chasing the lights in a bus or a cruise is very common, but what sets this experience apart is that it is closest to getting a first-hand experience of the Sami way of life. There is no electricity, and the buildings are heated by open fire, wood stoves and oil lamps.

3) Sommaroy: Located about 36 kilometres west of the city of Tromsø, it has pristine sand beaches and scenic beauty. It is a nice one hour drive out to Sommarøy around Kvaløya from Tromsø. and the drive is through the 18th century wooden houses. You can also drive along Kvaløya’s fjords and fishing villages. At the end of the peninsula of Sommarøy (Hillesøya) you will find a small hill. From this hill you have a wonderful view across the ocean with some little islands. The Northern sighting is great from Sommaroy Hill and coast. The best part of this experience is that one can see the Northern lights as well as its reflection in the ocean.

Sommarøy is linked by bridges which provide great opportunities to take birds-eye pictures over the waters. The vista is dotted with small islands with mossy grassland and the colours in the sky changes the tint of the waters from aqua blues to warm greys. Photographing the northern lights with the illuminated bridge of Sommarøy is a double delight.

4) Tverrbotn: It is an inlet within Tromso which is around 31km from the town and is approximately a 40 minute drive from Tromso. A good location to witness the lights is right at the end of this place which overlooks the ocean. The Lights can be photographed along with the Fjords and the mountains.

5) Reinholtan: This location is on the way to Sommaroy and is south east of Ersfjordbotn. This place gets very cold during the winter. While the Northern lights are impressive here, a short hike up the hill in fact will add to the glitterati both for the eyes and the lens.

6) Lyfjord: Located at around 25kms from Tromso city centre, Lyfjord is a small village, in fact innermost village in Lyfjorden. This is a short fjord, which is just 1.3 km long. What is very interesting about this place is the diverse backdrop of fjords, bushes, plain, water and hills.

7) Skjelhollet: Approximately 20kms, from the Tromso city centre , is Skjelhollet, a small village surrounded by mountains and dotted with streams and lakes. The place itself is a photographer’s delight. It can be visualised as a valley culminating into the ocean and the Northern Lights also appear to be following the same trajectory

Did it create intrigue, excite or it was scary? Most of these places are within an hour long drive from Tromso. Usually during each hunt 3 to 4 of these places are covered. The good part of the hunt is that everyone is allowed ample time to experience the Aurora Borealis phenomena, click pictures, and the guide is more than forth coming to help you with the camera angle etc. Carry a good camera ( link to the photography tips blog) if you really want to create wonderful memories.

As stated earlier, there is no guarantee that Northern Lights would smile at the first attempt, and multiple attempts need to be budgeted for. The weather is one of the most important factors to consider when hunting for the Northern Lights. The Northern Lights are at least 80 km above the Earth’s surface and the highest clouds we see are no more than 5-10 km high. Your guide will keep you informed about the places with clear sky, without the clouds. Also it has to be away from the ambient lights.

These are my suggestions basis my experience, both from the point of witnessing the lights and capturing the glam and celestial disco. A quick note, I would like to add here. It is very cold in Tromso during the winter season and the variation in weather could be extreme for many of us. It is critical to pack the right kind of clothing. Special thermal suits are provided when stepping out to witness the lights, but do carry the protection like snow jackets, gloves, all weather shoes with woollen socks, caps and scarves. While clicking the Northern Lights, manoeuvring the camera can get challenging, with the thick gloves, hence a pair of silk mittens is recommended and yes, don’t forget that tripod stand.

I had a great time at Tromso, was lucky enough to experience Aurora Borealis though in the 3rd attempt, and despite my best preparations was not so lucky with my pictures, hence insisting on the two pair of gloves. I can go on and on about the Sami culture, Norwegian food habits and the science behind it, the history of Polar bear expeditions , and of course the myth around Trolls, but all that in another post Signing off, wishing you a Great Aurora Borealis experience in person and fantastic work with the lens.