Murchison Falls National Park – A magical wildlife experience
Murchison Falls National Park, at nearly 3,800 sq kms, is the oldest and largest protected area in Uganda. Along with the contiguous Karuma and Bugungu wildlife reserves, the size of the protected area goes up to around 5,000 sq kms.
Murchison straddles the Victoria Nile as it cuts across through multiple rapids and waterfalls in its journey to Lake Albert. The Victoria Nile neatly dissects the park, dividing grasslands on the northern bank from the bush and forest on the southern side. The grasslands, roamed by big game, are dotted by borassus palms, acacia trees and patches of riverine woodlands. The highlight is the river’s explosive exit through a narrow gorge at Murchison Falls; a truly awesome spectacle!
A Wildlife Gem
With such a vast area and diversity of ecosystems – grasslands, woodlands, wetlands and riverine systems, Murchison is the undisputed jewel of wildlife in Uganda. Murchison has impressive wildlife numbers and a wealth of wildlife diversity. It has nearly 76 species of mammals and 450 species of birds, 51 reptile species, 28 known amphibians’ species and 755 plant species – a veritable wildlife treasure.
My personal experience also attests to this abundance. I had the maximum sightings of mammal and bird species in Murchison – far better than my sightings at Queen Elizabeth National Park!
Highlights of Murchison Falls National Park
Diverse landscapes
Savannah grasslands, woodlands, wetlands, riverine vegetation and rich tropical rainforests – all within a single park! The diversity of ecosystems not only results in high tally of unique wildlife sightings, but also lends itself to amazingly beautiful panoramas!
Abundance of Wildlife
In addition to a very productive safari experience, the sheer variety of wildlife in the different ecosystems is sure to delight! Cape buffaloes, Uganda Kob, Oribis, Rothschild’s Giraffe, Elephants, Hippos, Warthogs, Hartebeests, Waterbucks etc.. are found in clear abundance. In addition, sightings of predators like Lions, Leopards, Jackals are also quite common.
Note: Wildlife Safaris are possible only in the section north of the Nile. Southwards, the thick forests preclude any meaningful sightings. For accommodation, it is better to stay in the northern section itself. There is no proper bridge to cross the Nile and the ferry service is not so frequent. Hence, staying in the south would result in a considerable amount of time spent to merely get to the start of the safari.
Birding
The birding is extraordinary! On my trip, I clocked in an impressive 70 species of birds (i.e. the birds that I could identify) in a span of a day and half! My highest ever tally, the figure is not bad for an amateur birder – evidence of the sheer abundance!
Check out my bird list on: https://ebird.org/checklist/S65890481
Boat Cruise
One of the best experiences in Murchison is the Boat Safari! I call it a safari as, in terms of wildlife sightings, it was equal to or better than an equal duration land safari. We saw Elephants, Waterbucks, Giraffes and buffaloes in plenty. Hippos and crocodiles are common sights – but the birding is excellent as well. On the boat cruise alone, I personally clocked in nearly 50% of the bird species I sighted in the entire park!
The distant (and smallish) sight of the Murchison falls and the calm river on the boat cruise can be underwhelming on the expectation front. However, opinions are bound to change once you are visit the top of Murchison falls!
Note: There is a small trekking trail from the Nile to the top of the falls. The walk is a fabulous experience through pristine forests culminating on the top of the falls. The trail has a duration of 45 mins to about an hour. However, the logistics would need to be arranged in advanced. People who opt for the walk would get off the cruise near the Falls and proceed to the top. And the balance of the travellers would get back to the starting point on the boat’s return journey.
Top of Murchison Falls
Beyond wildlife safaris, the highlight of a trip to Murchison falls has to be the short but spectacular experience of being close to the most powerful falls in the world! Here, the entire volume of the Victoria Nile squeezed in the gorge of 5-8 metres. Falling down to nearly 40 metres into the ‘Devil’s Cauldron’, the resulting roar is to be experienced to be believed.
In 1962 – the year of Uganda’s independence, heavy rainfalls caused in a surge in the volume of the Nile. This resulted in a smaller diversion of the Nile’s waters and the creation of another falls just adjacent – the Uhuru falls. Overshadowed by the bigger and more famous Murchison falls, Uhuru falls has definitely reduced the impact of Murchison falls – though it remains formidable!
Lookout for the clear rainbow created by the rising vapour of the falls – an unforgettable combination of natural beauty and immense power.
Surrounding Gems
A visit to Murchison Falls has two additional benefits. There are two more great attractions just south of the Park. The first is Budongo Forest reserve. Budongo is a tropical rain forest with a high concentration of Chimpanzees. An alternative to Kibale, you can do your Chimpanzee tracking adventure here. Second is the Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary. The sanctuary is trying to increase the rhino population in a controlled area, with the ultimate objective of reintroducing the Rhino back into the wild in Uganda. This formidable effort is the last hope for Rhinos in Uganda.
Both Budongo and Ziwa are must visits in Uganda. Despite the negatives (refer the section on Oil below) on Murchison Falls National Park, both Budongo and Ziwa are amazing destinations.
The Oil Bonanza: Boon or tragedy?
The discovery of Oil in Lake Albert will definitely be beneficial to a poor country like Uganda. There is no debate on this fact. However, I suppose, we can never rely on politicians to work towards a more sustainable extraction option. Options friendlier to the environment and the denizens of this pristine area. But, greed (of companies and politicians) always wins over the long term interest of the country and of the environment.
When I was in Murchison, the saddest part was watching the terribly ugly, broad wide highway (at least a 6 lane one) being built (with Chinese supervisors) cutting right through the park. They have not even spared Budongo Forest reserve – the road crudely and noisily cuts across pristine centuries old rain forests. Presumably, this would provide transport options for the locals as well. But then there is no doubt that these are being built for transportation of oil. I suppose building a road circumventing the park or building oil pipelines were thoughts that were never considered on short term considerations. Sad. Shame on the Ugandan government. It has taken only one short sighted decision to destroy years of conservation efforts in Murchison.
Once completed, I have no doubt in my mind that the park and the wildlife would suffer irreversible long term damage. The short term impact would be more money for Uganda’s politicians and the Chinese companies involved; but the long term impact by the destruction of this last remaining bit of wilderness would be significant.
Conflicting actions of the Ugandan Government: hope for the future?
I appreciate the efforts of the Ugandan government to protect its remaining wildlife areas. Long periods of strife, war and economic needs of the people have nearly destroyed its wildlife areas. Indeed, many efforts of the government and the private sector in protecting and promoting areas are laudable. Examples are the promotion of Mt Elgon and Kidepo, the efforts in getting the Rhino back to Uganda through the Ziwa Sanctuary initiative, responsible Mountain Gorilla tourism and the initiative in Ngamba Chimpanzee Sanctuary. The list goes on.
But the ‘murder’ of Murchison by the very same government saddened and leaves me a very pessimistic view of the future of Uganda as a great tourism destination. I do pray (against the odds) that this will be reversed. Economic prosperity and the environment can definitely co-exist provided there is political will and maturity.
Watch the heart wrenching document: ‘Virungas’ on Netflix. This also talks about the evil designs of oil companies on the Congo side of Lake Albert. Will give you an idea on how insidious this industry is and how much collateral damage, greed can inflict.
Read more on this despicable tragedy:
https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB10001424052748704464704575208020866845024
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