Samburu National Reserve – a worthwhile addition to your Kenya adventure?

To the north of Nairobi, around 350 kms away, is the small but important Samburu National reserve – which derives its name from the Samburu people who have lived here for ages. A place of endless skies, dust-red plains, open grasslands with clusters of acacia trees and palm-fringed rivers, Samburu National Reserve lies on the fringes of the vast and arid desert once known as the Northern Frontier District – the lowlands which extend up to Lake Turkana in the north.

From a traveller’s perspective, you would normally want to combine Masai Mara – the most well-known and marketed theme of Kenya, with another ecosystem. However, given the logistical challenges of road transport, you will be faced with the dilemma of choosing between the dry Samburu (Northern circuit) and the swampy Amboseli (Southern Circuit).

Of course, we are all pressed for time and squeezing in 8-10 days is what we can all afford at the max. Given this, and the fact that combining Amboseli (to the south) and Samburu (to the north) is quite impossible within 8-10 days – you will end up on the road most of the time! (unless you fly, of course).

With its picturesque landscape, biodiversity and absolutely gorgeous views of Mt. Kilimanjaro, Amboseli is also a great option to combine with Masai Mara. So, yes, often it is Amboseli that wins versus Samburu in a typical Kenyan itinerary.

Why should Samburu be considered at all? It is, personally, my favourite and I would definitely consider it one of the must-visits in Kenya. Let’s see why!

Landscapes: An arid / semi-arid divide between the populous Agricultural Highlands of Mt. Kenya and the vast lowlands of Northern Kenya, the Samburu area (combined with the contiguous Buffalo Springs Reserve and the Shaba reserve) has dramatic landscapes – quite different from the other reserves. Physically distinct from other Kenyan eco-systems – the dry, semi-arid landscape of the Reserve features rocky battlements, craggy scarps, dry riverbeds and fallen boulders rising out of the thorn scrub against a backdrop of the far-distant hills and the sacred red table-mountain- the Ololokwe.

Samburu Special 5

The Samburu eco-system hosts a distinct set of flora and fauna, not found elsewhere in Kenya. You will also hear of the Samburu Special 5 (as against the famous Big 5 of Africa) – a set of animals, which are rarely found elsewhere in Kenya. These are

1. Gerenuk – an antelope that looks like a Giraffe with its long neck ideal as a browser
2. Grevy’s zebra – with its white belly as distinct from the common Zebra you find elsewhere
3. Somali Ostrich – distinct with its ‘blue’ skin as compared to the Masai Ostrich
4. Reticulated giraffe – more distinct lines as compared to the Masai Giraffe or the Nubian Giraffe
5. Beisa oryx – the long horned, large beautiful antelope

In addition, Samburu supports large herds of elephant, the Lion, Cheetah and the elusive Kenyan Leopard.

The Brown River

In the middle of Samburu, (separating the Samburu Reserve from the Buffalo Springs reserve) the Ewaso Ng’iro (meaning the ‘brown river’ and pronounced U-aa-so-Nyee-ro) flows through doum palm groves and thick riverine forests. Supporting a significant population of Nile crocodiles and Hippos, the Ewaso Ng’iro is a lifeline for the wildlife of this arid region – offering wonderful sighting opportunities!

Birding

With more than 350 species of birds (some of them unique to this region), this is a bird watcher’s delight – with excellent chances of viewing predators like the Martial Eagle, the White backed vulture, tawny eagle, Bateleur etc.. The sheer numbers are amazing – I managed to spot (though birding was not my primary objective) nearly 50 species of birds – many of which I have not seen in the other reserves

Away from the madding crowds

The best part of Samburu is the fact that despite its unique biodiversity, due to the challenges (distance and choice) which I have explained above, the eco-system is relatively crowd-free and serene! If you are lucky and sight the big cats (Lion, leopard or cheetah), you will have the pleasure of an exclusive ‘screening’ – unlike the Mara where you will be jostling with other ‘noisy’ vehicles.

Refer my blog on ‘Patience in a safari’ – which is based on experiences in Samburu.

https://beyonder.travel/kenya/value-patience-safari-adventure/

Covering Ol-Pejeta conservancy

An additional but very important advantage of covering the Northern circuit would be the opportunity to visit Ol-Pejeta Conservancy on the way to Samburu. This delightful conservancy right on the equator with fabulous views of Mt. Kenya, has a Black Rhino sanctuary as well as an amazing Chimpanzee sanctuary. In addition, Ol Pejeta is the home to the last remaining two Northern White Rhinos of the world! Makes Ol-Pejeta is a must visit when going to Samburu and serves as a mid-point break when travelling from Samburu towards Masai Mara.

The incidental reason for coming to Samburu would the fame this reserve has earned due to Elsa the Lioness of the movie Born Free fame. (based on the book detailing the efforts of conservationists George and Joy Adamson’s efforts to rewild an orphaned Lioness raised in captivity). The Reserve was also the home of Kamunyak, a mystery lioness famous for adopting oryx calves.

I hope I have made a compelling reason for including Samburu Reserve in your East African Safari adventure. You will not regret it!!